Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90: The steps to an affordably good paint job

Being an early retired Leisure Freak means I always look for ways to save money. Or at least spend it sensibly. Car repairs are something that can strain the budget. I try to do what I believe I can do or handle myself. One of my money-saving efforts was Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90. In this case my truck. I painted it at home without special painting equipment or skills.

Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90
Mini-Truck Rustoleum Paint Results

This paint job is now in its third year and is holding up great. It is doing far better than I expected or was warned about. I thought I would share what I did and where I got the details on how to pull it off. Anyone with some time and a little space can do this if you have an older auto that looks like crap and you would like to have it look more presentable while offering surface protection. The bonus- Not having to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars.

                                                              My Situation.
Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90
Busted Frame- Ready to Resurrect

My 1981 SR5 Toyota custom pickup that I have driven almost daily since 1993 finally had a life ending catastrophe. The frame had rusted through and cracked over its then 31 years on the road. There is a reason you see few old import cars/trucks on the road, RUST. This truck has huge sentimental value as it was my son’s and my first automotive project together. He was just short of 13 when we turned the truck into a hardtop convertible. We had many father and son adventures with it spanning 5 western States.

 

Frame and Bed swap
Frame and Bed Replaced

It took some months for me to find a suitable donor truck where I could harvest a good frame to resurrect my long-time truck. I also kept the bed from the donor truck as mine had far more rust in it. Even this new bed had some rust bubbling on the side where the inner wheel well is. That rust is another reason I elected to go the frugal paint job route.

Please note that buying the donor truck and paying someone to complete all the work for the frame/bed swap cost me all I could logically spend regardless of sentiment. That was another reason for a frugal paint solution. The lowest painting bid I got was $1400 and there is no stopping rust. After a few years it will return. I could have waited for the local MAACO Discount paint shops to run a sale but that would still cost hundreds. My truck was a light Yellow and the new truck bed was Red. I was ready to roll in it so I needed to do something about the yellow and red Ronald McDonald color scheme.

Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90 – The Rustoleum Auto Paint Job

Primered the red swapped bed
Sanding, Primer, Decal removal begins

I decided I would look into painting the truck myself. I kept coming across all these posts and You Tube videos where people had done a fair paint job using non-automotive Rustoleum Paint and a high density foam roller. That’s right, Rustoleum. The same oil based enamel stuff you get at Lowes or Home Depot to paint your patio furniture that comes in the little quart cans.

I then came across another site where they just used high density foam brushes.  The roller method can leave a lot of bubbles and require a lot of sanding to smooth out. I decided to follow this one guy’s brush technique and I have to say it went real well. The point was to reduce the amount of sanding to do. I will admit there was still sanding needed but I have to believe far less than I would have trying to remove bubbles.

Frugal Car Painting Supplies Needed
  • Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90Rustoleum high gloss paint – 4 Quarts. For me to get a light Yellow I needed a 3 Gloss White to 1 Sunburst Yellow mixed. Most cars will take only 2 or 3 quarts depending on size, SUV or full-sized PU more. I had over half of my mixed paint left.
  • Odorless mineral spirits – 3 quarts to a gallon. (Used for surface cleaning, prep, and paint thinning which allows paint to dry faster and for it to flatten out after brushing on).
  • Rustoleum Primer spray paint – 1 Can (I needed 3 to cover the truck bed, always best to use the same brand of primer as the paint)
  • 3″ High density foam brushes – 10 ea.
  • 2″ High density foam brushes – 10 ea.
  • Paint trays – 3 ea.
  • Wet Sandpaper – 3 packs (600, 800, 1500 grit)
  • Painter’s tape – 1 Roll
  • Old Newspaper or plastic for masking work
  • Rubber Gloves
  • Spray Bottle
ready to paint
Sanded and ready for first Rustoleum Paint coat

The Frugal DYI Rustoleum Auto Paint Job Process

At a high level the job goes like this:

Getting the Car Ready
  • Wash the car and if there is any dents or body blemishes you need to fix get some auto body filler and make repairs. For small blemishes just use auto body finishing glaze/putty that is easily sanded. I had old peeling decals I needed to remove so I ordered from eBay a decal remover eraser that you run in your drill to get all the old and nasty decal stripes off.
  • Wipe car down with mineral spirits to clean any oils from the surface. (Read and follow all safety and warnings posted on the product can while handling product).
  • Remove anything from the car you can that you don’t want painted.
  • masked and ready to paint
    Taped/Masked and ready to paint

    Mask around everything on the car that you don’t want painted.

  • Sand all surfaces to be painted with 600 grit sandpaper. If there are areas like rust that need to be smoothed get lower grit paper to smooth it out. You are sanding to rough the paint and level the surface not remove all the existing paint.
  • Primer any areas where sanding went to bare metal. In my case I also primered the Red truck bed to Grey to help with Yellow paint coverage.
Paint Time
  • Mix your paint with the mineral spirits using a 50%/50% ratio. (Read and follow all safety and warnings posted on the product can while handling product).
  • Prep the paint surfaces by wiping your car down again with mineral spirits.
  • Apply the paint and allow to dry. The 50%/50% is very thin and should dry in a few hours. I did this while still working (Career #2) so I waited until the next evening.
  • 3 coats
    First 3 coats down & questioning my sanity

    Repeat – Prep the paint surfaces with mineral spirits and apply the paint and allow to dry.

  • Repeat – Prep the paint surfaces with mineral spirits and apply the paint and allow to dry.
  • Once the third coat is dry, Wet Sand lightly with 600 grit to smooth out the paint and scuff for more paint to be added. I used a trigger pump water spray bottle to wet the surface and the paper instead of running a hose. You will question whether this is going to work due to a lack of coverage but the paint builds upon itself in all the layers. Just don’t sand off all your work.
  • Repeat painting process 3 more times. The process is paint 3 coats and sand, then repeat as necessary.
  • 6 coats
    6 coats down & starting to see results

    Sand and inspect. Repeat painting process as necessary until you get the right paint coverage.

  • Once satisfied with the paint coverage use 800 grit and higher grit to polish out any imperfections out of the paint including any brush marks easily seen at your discretion.

 

I know this is very high level.

If you are interested in trying this I recommend you get the more deep details from the source I used – Poor Man’s Paint Job  ( http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Poor-Mans-Paint-Job-or…-How-to-paint-your-c/?ALLSTEPS ) Note: If the details end with the disclaimer, scroll down a little farther until you see the Download/View all steps/Next buttons and select View all steps

7 coats
7th coat coverage

Another good source of information about the use of Rustoleum paint to paint a car using a foam roller and foam brushes was the article put out by Hot Rod Magazine    (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/paint-body/hrdp-0707-1962-ford-falcon-budget-paint-job/ ) Note: Just click on “view all 36 photos” or bottom of the first photo where it shows “1/36” to get a photo and step by step.

My Frugal DYI Rustoleum Auto Paint Job Results

painted convertible mini truck-top on
Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90- Mini Truck project complete

I am sure everyone’s results are different depending on the car and color of paint being applied to and used. Your masking will also make a difference on your final results. Yellow is a color that does not cover well so I had up to 10 coats on flat surfaces like the hood and roof (I had some primer spots) and 14 on the truck bed sides to cover the grey primer. I also spent time sanding with high grit sandpaper to remove as many brush marks as I could. They are only visible in certain light but I wanted as close to a sprayed paint job as I could get. There are still a few spots that I can see brush marks but nobody else has unless I point them out and they look very carefully.

The Results That Really Matters
  • I ended up with a great 5-footer paint job and maybe better than that.
  • The Truck is protected from the elements and all one shiny color.
  • I will be able to inexpensively do touch-up paint myself.
  • It cost me 14 days and less than $100. The first day was a few hours but the repaint and light sanding was only 1 to 2 hours each day.
  • my 1981 Toy SR5 Convertible Mini Pickup
    Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90- Mini Truck project complete

    I wax it once a year and the paint has held up as new. However this truck is parked in a garage when not in use. Over time UV exposure will fade and oxidize Rustoleum paint so washing and waxing will help it look good.

  • The Paint is hard and doesn’t easily chip or scratch as some have warned. Because it is built up from multiple light layers it holds up far better than spray can paint. I used Satin Black rattle cans for inside the truck bed and spray paint is a thinner coat of paint and does scratch way easier than the brushed on Yellow.
  • After 3 years I am just starting to see signs of that rust on the bed. It is starting to bubble again so in a year or so I will grind, sand, finish putty, and repaint that area soon with the left over paint.
  • Update June 2018: It’s now 6 years into this paint job. It still looks like the day I painted it. The rust area is still very small and barely noticeable. There are 5 small 1/16 inch raised circular blemishes but no discoloration. I haven’t felt the need yet to make paint repairs.
Final Comments

I can’t guaranty this is the best choice for everyone or that by doing it you will be completely satisfied. A perfectionist or traditionalist will probably not agree with this method, product used, or results. I get that and to each their own. No need for hateful comments.

Know that by using a paint like this if later you or someone else decides to take the car in for a traditional shop paint job that all the Rustoleum must be sanded off first. However it does sand off and you can do that or I am sure they will probably just charge extra to do it. I have no intentions of doing that given the probability of rust’s return and my satisfaction with the results. It looks great and I can repair it myself when needed at little or no cost.

Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90 using Rustoleum was a fun experience and I would do it again on the right vehicle under the right circumstances. I may even try the roller method.

Do you have a car that isn’t worth the cost of a traditional paint job that you might maybe try this method on as a frugal DIY project?

Do you think it is just stupid to use a non-automotive paint on any car to save money?

61 thoughts on “Frugally DIY Painting a Car for $90: The steps to an affordably good paint job

  1. Man, you make car painting look so easy! I had a really hard time trying to paint my car. Then, painting the inside, because if you don’t then the colors will be off, is even harder.

    1. Thanks for the comment Phillius. I purposely tried to match the color I painted to the interior door jams to avoid having to paint there or as you say have mismatched colors. I said this DYI was frugal not necessarily easy. It does take time, space, commitment and labor to the end of the process to get good results.There is a reason the professional body shops have to charge what they do and the results would of course be professional. This process has worked for a budget vehicle and a good 3 to 5 footer paint finish but I wouldn’t do it on my Corvette. That car or any higher value car goes to the automotive body and paint shop if it needs repainting.
      Tommy

  2. I just bought a new car, however, there are a lot of small scrapes on the car. Plus, the bumper has some paint fading from exposure to the sun. It was really helpful to come across your post about how to re-paint the body of my car on a cheap budget. Additionally, it was helpful to know that I should wipe down my car with mineral spirits. I can definitely see how doing this will prepare my car well so that I get a quality outcome of the paint job. Thank you for sharing such great instructions!

    1. Thanks for the comment Meg. This process came from some trusted sources and it worked for me. Higher value collectable or newer cars should definitely be painted by professionals in their shop.
      Tommy

  3. That is actually really cool that you are able to DIY auto body. I think i might do this myself as a fun project! Thanks for the picture steps on what to do to get it right for your car.

    1. Thanks for the comment Ava. Fortunately other than grinding smooth a small rust spot and using finish spot filler there was no body work needed. If I had major dents or creases that needed to be repaired I would leave that to professions. I have had mixed results in previous attempts to pound out a dent and fill smooth to a point where there was no detection of it.
      Tommy

  4. That’s a good paint job that was done on that truck. I’m thinking about taking my car to do a bumper restoration and maybe a new paint job. My daughter left a huge dent on the backside of my car when she tried to back it up from the garage.

    1. Thanks for the comment Correy. Having a decent paint job makes a big difference on how your car looks. Hopefully the work you need done isn’t too expensive. I am sure it will look great. Good luck.
      Tommy

  5. I bought a similar looking truck for my personal business. It would be nice to adorn the truck with my company brand and information, so that I can get my name out there. Is it really possible to paint a truck for only $90?

    1. Thanks for comment Bryan. Painting my truck for around $90 was only possible becasue I didn’t use automotive rated paint. Using Rustoleum is not a standard automotive paint but for my needs it works fine. Its shiny and protects against rust. Good luck with your personal business and any advertising you add to your truck.
      Tommy

  6. I actually really liked the way that the end product here turned out. To be honest, I kind of have low standards when I hear that something is DIY. But, your car actually looks professionally done. Do you have any experience in the professional world with this skill? http://www.btryan.com.au/spray_painting.html

    1. Thanks Lauren, I don’t have professional painting experience. I did spend a couple of weeks during a summer sanding semi trucks to prep for paint back in the summer of 1976 part-time as a temp to help the shop get caught up but there was no way they would let me close to a paint gun. I think that my truck looks great for what I did and nobody notices its a rusto-paint job. It turns out as good as you are willing to prep including masking and sand/polish.
      Tommy

  7. First, your DIY auto body paint job turned out very well. The yellow isn’t too bright, and it seems to be applied incredibly evenly, which I image was quite difficult. Second, the process you used to paint your car yourself doesn’t look too hard, and is something that I would like to recreate if possible on my own car. Weather has worn the top and the trunk lid. That being said, do you have any advice on what I should be sure to do when painting only specific parts of the car?

    1. Thanks for the reply Audrey. My getting an even coat of paint was all about taking my time to add enough of the light layers to cover and allow for the sanding to polish out any brush stokes or other imperfections. Then only sanding what is necessary, being careful around edges and not going to hard or deep removing too much of my paint. As to your question, I think it would be near impossible to use this method and only paint a part of your car and get a perfect color match if that is what you want. Black, Red, Blue, White, Yellow, etc. the colors you get with Rustoluem can be mixed as I did to get my light yellow if they weren’t a close match to your other car body parts on their own. If your car has metallic paint then this method would not match as this paint is basic non-metallic colors. To spot-paint a single panel like your top or trunk lid for an exact match I would recommend a professional body/paint shop. If Rustoleum black matches your black, Rustoleum Red matches your car’s red, white, etc. or is close enough for you then go for it with this frugal method on your low dollar car. You could always paint the top a different offsetting color like white or black or paint the entire car to get it all to match if a professional shop’s costs for the top and trunk lid costs more than what you want to pay for your older low value car. However I would think for a pro-shop to match and paint your top and trunk lid that the cost could be reasonable if there is little prep work and no body work needed. Especially if your car has value and the rest of the car’s paint is in great shape.
      Tommy

  8. I wish I was brave enough to do this myself. But I’m pretty sure I would mess it up. And then we’d have to re-do it more than once and I’d probably just end up wishing I had taken it in to a body shop instead.

    1. Thanks for the comment Veronika. I admit I had some of the same concerns, especially early on in the project becasue it will look horrible until some paint layers are down. The thing is I wouldn’t do this if it was a car that had a high enough value where I would devalue it with this method. This is for cars that probably don’t justify the cost of a professional paint job. As for ruining a lower value car with this process, its all about the prep and sanding. You can sand away a mistake pretty easily and you just have to reapply more paint if necessary. It does take having the time and space to do this along with a desire to put in the work equal to the results you are looking for. Otherwise you are right, you may wish you hadn’t started this and had just went to the paint shop where you can pay an agreed upon price for a nice paint job.
      Tommy

  9. Wow, that looks great! I would have never thought of using Rustoleum. You make it seem super easy to do. I would worry about the sanding part, though, because I don’t have good experiences with sanding things in the past. I might try it out, though! Thanks!

    1. Thanks for the comment Veronica. It is a frugal paint and painting process for low value cars that could use some sprucing up but not worth the cost of a pro paint job. Sanding isn’t too big of a deal because if you sand too far you just reapply more paint. Don’t sand enough then you can go back over it later. If you sand for too long without a break you can fatigue your hands so as long as you take your time you should be fine. Rustoleum Paint results are certainly tied to good sanding. For me the worrisome part was realizing that by starting this it was a commitment. Once I started this process I would have to see it to the end. I would do it again on the right car. Good luck on your project.
      Tommy

  10. Crazy that you can use a hardware store paint for cars! I’ll still use automotive paint on my car, but it was still helpful to see your process. I think that I’m going to have to mentally prepare myself for all that sanding (not my favorite thing in the world) but I know that it’ll be worth it. Thanks for sharing your process!

    1. Thanks for the comment Janelle. Believe me, I would have loved to have had the space and equipment to spray my truck with automotive paint. There is reasonably priced single-stage automotive grade paint at auto paint supply stores but you still need the room to create a spray booth and have an air compressor, breather mask, and paint gun. It drys differently and from what I read would not apply/finish well using the foam roller/brush method. Like I said in this post, this was a super-frugal alternative for an older car that anyone could do and it didn’t require special equipment or skills like spray painting a car without leaving runs and orange peel everywhere. As for the sanding. That really is the secret for good results no matter what kind of auto paint method used. Good luck with your project.
      Tommy

  11. You did a really great job on this. I love DIY car projects, they always prove to be a great read.. No doubt about it! Big thumbs up 🙂

    1. Thanks Steven. It has been a few years since this project and the paint still looks awesome. Sometimes it is worth taking an unconventional DIY route when money is better spent elsewhere than on traditional remedies. That is, only when safety isn’t being compromised. In this project’s case it was an easy decision becasue it’s all about surface protection and acceptable appearance.
      Thanks again for the thumbs up.
      Tommy

  12. Basically the color of a car fades off gradually over the time, which ultimately reduces the overall look of the car. Well, in that case painting it again gives it an elegant look. Though it does not have any sort of relation with the overall performance or its life span, sill I think painting the car over a certain period of time is important in order to keep it aesthetically pleasing and it is also helpful to minimize the chance of rust. Well, coming to the point, usually in most of the cases, people prefer to take their car to an authorized service center to paint it, but after going through your blog I got to know the way using which one could easily paint his car on his own. So, on a overall basis I found the blog quite appreciating and I would like to say thank you for sharing such lovely tips.

    1. Thanks for the comment Samuel. I am glad you enjoyed the post. I agree with you about repainting a car. I think if a car/truck still has value that taking it to a legit automotive painting pro is the way to go. It isn’t cheap and so it makes no sense to me to pay more for a paint job than a car is worth. I think for those of us with older cars this method I used or the roller method is very worth considering.
      Tommy

  13. When our looks odd with random stains, then we think of painting it. However, cost stands before us as a major hindrance. So, if we can do this ourselves, the charge of the labor can at least be saved. For this you have to take the idea from a painting expert. He can suggest you the best quality colors for the vehicle and how the colors will be given on it. They know how to remove the existing color and put the fresh on it. They also tell you to make ready the essential things before you start the work.

    1. Thanks for the comment Helen. Cost definitely came into play in my decision. I do think that there is value in talking with painting pros to educate ourselves about available products and the painting process. Even talking with paint retailers can help in getting educated. However there will be bias by pros against the process I used because they are in the business of making money. Just have to go in knowing that and then do what we think is best for our situation.
      Tommy

  14. This is awesome! A year ago I would have laughed the whole thing way. As a car guy, this would have almost insulted me! But now I am “wiser” and have discovered the FIRE way of thinking about things. Having an old Toyota pickup is very appealing…BUT THE RUST! And you fixed it. And it is indeed great. If I didn’t live in Vermont I’d be looking for more older cars like this, but they’d likely be full of rust holes in short order. Really, this is awesome all-around! BTW – what year is the Vette?

    1. Thanks for the comment Ron. Glad you liked the article. The old Japanese steel is really bad. You seldom see old Toyotas, Datsuns or Hondas because of how much rust loves them. Mine would be gone too if I hadn’t spent over 6 months searching for and luckily finding a donor truck that had been garaged for 20 years to get a frame and the truck bed. I would do this all again. I am very impressed with how well the paint has held up and still waxes up shiny as day one.
      My Vette is 1999 FRC.
      Tommy

  15. This is to a great degree exquisitely created and your concentrations are especially imparted. Generous, completely never quit creating. All the best web journals that are extremely valuable for keeping me share the thoughts without bounds also this is truly what I was searching for, and I am exceptionally upbeat to come here.

  16. Great job and excellent blog, this will definitely help me. I am about to embark on a Rustoleum paint job for an old Mercedes Sprinter i have recently acquired. One question, would i need to sand all the existing paint off or can i simply just rough the surface? It is quite a large van so stripping all the current paint work isn’t a great option. I am not really looking for the ‘perfect’ paint ob, just want to make it look tidier than it is at the moment.

    1. Thanks for the comment Noone. Sounds like a great project. I actually saw a YouTube video where a couple of guys rolled Rustoleum on their van. Everything I found about this and what I did was simply sand enough to rough the surface so the new paint has something to stick to. I haven’t ever seen anyone say that there was a paint surface that required sanding completely off before applying Rustoleum paint. If concerned you could do a small test patch first. One thing that is important is that all the wax and other coatings like tar, etc. have been sanded off, which the rough sanding and Mineral Spirit wipe offs should accomplish. At least it did for me. I only sanded all the way down for repair situations where some body filler was needed and then applied primer before painting. You already will have a lot of surface to lightly sand after every 3 Rustoleum coats so have plenty of sandpaper and patience for the ready. Good tape masking and sanding is what makes this DIY paint job really look decent.
      Tommy

  17. Great job and excellent blog, this will definitely help me. I am about to embark on a Rustoleum paint job for an old Mercedes Sprinter i have recently acquired.

  18. It’s such a great post. Everything has its time. After some time the colors gets fade, so its always the best idea of re-coloring them.

    1. Thanks for the comment Richa. You are correct that paints all fade over time. Especially if constantly exposed to sunlight. My truck is garaged when not in use. Although in my case I use it almost daily its colors have stayed crisp over the years since completing this project. But even if it does fade the great part about this painting option is it’s low cost/effort to refresh with a new coat of paint.
      Tommy

    1. Thanks for the comment Portella. The beauty of this process and paint is it can be sanded off and won’t cost an arm and a leg to find out if you can get a good job out of it. If your car already needs a paint job there isn’t much to lose. I figured if worse came to worse then I could always sand it off and just spray primer over everything and leave it that way. This method allowed me to work the paint surface as much as I wanted to and needed to for it to functionally protect the car from the elements and look great.
      Tommy

  19. Nice article… Wash the vehicle and if there is any gouges or body imperfections you have to settle get some auto body filler and make fixes. For little flaws simply use auto body completing coating/putty that is effectively sanded. I had old stripping decals I expected to expel so I requested from eBay a decal remover eraser that you keep running in your penetrate to get all the old and awful decal stripes off.
    Thank you for sharing this nice article.

    1. Thanks for the comment Akshay. Where a heat gun and goo-off failed I too used an eraser wheel (also bought off eBay) in my drill to remove the remnants and residue of 30 year old factory stripe decals. Removing the old stripe decals took more time and effort than any body fill and sanding in my pre-paint preparation.
      Tommy

  20. I agree, but however smooth the test the test drive is, it’s important that you check what’s under the hood. Nothing beats a close inspection on the engine, just to check if the car you’re buying is really worth the $$

  21. Hey! Thanks for sharing the wonderful information. We are also working for automotive services and me and my husband are thinking about to open other side business like food truck or ice cream truck. And your article will help me alot about to open a new business. Thanks for sharing and keep on coming.

  22. I have promised my dad that I will renovate the car like a new car. I have decided to do enamel paint on car. Well I don’t know how to do the painting. I am glad that I have found your article. I am just not confident to do this job alone. I will take help of my sister to assist me. What should I use to mask around the parts which will not be painted?

    1. Thanks for the comment John. I used masking tape and newspaper. There is better masking paper to use that would be inexpensive to buy. Good luck with your project.
      Tommy

  23. Thanks for sharing these tips on how to paint your own vehicle to save money. Since I don’t have the time, tools, or resources, I would want to hire a professional in my own situation. I’m hoping to find an experienced professional who can help paint my old convertible.

  24. I like how you said that you resorted to doing your car’s paint job on your own. We would like to do the same as well as our car using the same Rustoleum paint. However, if this gets too time-consuming, we will contact a transmission repair shop to help us out.

    1. I have to ask: You’re going to ask a contact repair shop to help you paint your car? You’ll certainly need to post pics of the results 🙂

  25. I like that you drove the same car since 1993 and it took you 90 dollars to redesign it. I appreciate how you can use these frugally-improvised products. However, we will need to take our baby to a Car Detail Shop to properly do this if things get troublesome.

  26. I am completely stunned and thrilled by your amazing article cause the way you have submitted the data over here is blown my mind away.Couple of days back i was really seeking for these information but didn’t find mind soothing data anywhere .One after another failed attempt and surfing the internet continuously i have got you but lately.I have really liked the art of presentation of paint but i really want more details information like which particular brand i really need to go for these stuffs, Can you recommend? Highly appreciation for your amazing professionalism and great patience.

  27. I have been thinking about getting my car’s hood repainted. It had a lot of chips from being hit by rocks while I was driving. It is good to know that I will want to think about getting a high gloss paint. It might be easier for me to get it repainted by an expert.

  28. I am completely spell bound for your amazing writing, the way you have described over here is very informative. For that, it cleared up some misconceptions regarding this. Couple of Days back i was really seeking this information but those not my asking question but after surfing the internet rapidly i got something creative. Highly appreciation for Your amazing professionalism and great patience

    1. Thanks for the comment Alexander. I’m happy that you found the post informative. It seems during these times of pandemic and home isolation a lot of people are interested in taking on this project as many people are also finding this post. Good luck with your project.
      Tommy

  29. Hi Tommy. Thank you for the great write up. I appreciate the detail, as well as your reasoning behind going with brushes rather than rollers. You have also made an effort to answer the questions and comments here. Thank you. I have a 1990 Miata that has 30 years of Arizona sun damage on the paint. No rust, but some of the paint just completely unsalvageable. and the plastic bumpers and hard top are no longer a proper color match. So I’ll be be going Sunrise Red all over. Quick touch up from the spay can afterwards. Your article is one of just a few I have bookmarked.

    1. Thanks for the comment Roeland. Glad to hear you found useful detail. Good luck with your Miata project. The paint has held up beautifully over the years. During pandemic isolation I decided to repair the rust spot mentioned in the article update. I had left over paint from years ago and simply sanded, hit with rust catalyst, and spot painted the repair with a small brush. It blended in perfectly which supports one of the reasons I chose this paint method.
      Tommy

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